Sonia has been guiding for four years and her knowledge and passion for the wilderness and wildlife in the region is really something. But for me, an afternoon chatting about Samburu culture and life, as we drive through the wild and beautiful Namunyak Conservancy was the highlight of the day.
We’re off to visit a local village …. against my better judgement I have to confess. I’ve never been a fan of “community visits”, but Sonia assures me that any fears of “contrived” and “cringy” are unwarranted on this occasion. She was right. There was no welcome by a troop of beaded and dancing women, no face painted warriors trying to encourage us to jump, and no “shop” at the end of our visit. In fact our visit went largely unnoticed as Sonia walked me through the village talking me through Samburu life. It wasn’t her village (she is from a couple of hours north), but it’s her life, and these are her people. It was fascinating.
The Samburu are semi-nomadic pastoralists, moving in search of fresh pastures as the seasons shift. Their villages are also transient, typically relocating every six months or so, depending on the rains. This cyclical migration isn’t just about survival; it reflects a profound harmony with nature, as they adapt their way of life to the ever-changing environment around them.
There are no men around – they are out with the cattle – but there are women cooking, kids playing and goats wandering around as we walk and talk. The manyatas are basic with their mud walls and sheeting roofs, but they are home to the community. The women are responsible for the goats and children Sonia tells me. And for getting water to the village. The latter is no mean feat during the dry season, with women having to walk miles to find water. They walk with gerry cans, which once filled, need to be lugged back … sometimes with the help of those trusted four legged Samburu landrovers.
As a young woman who has worked hard to achieve her goals, despite the odds against it, she’s all too aware of the challenges faced by young Kenyan women.
“Education is key” Sonia tells me. “Especially for girls in remote areas”. It’s not even just about the knowledge. “Being at school often saves girls from early marriage as well as providing them with the benefits of education” And with education comes dreams, choice, and personal fulfilment, as Sonia can attest to. “I went to a wildlife club at school and loved it” she tells me. “Despite being one of eight children, and the financial burden that come with that, my parents were really supportive, and I was lucky enough to be able to continue my education in college. It took a little longer than it might have done as I had to defer some of my exams due to lack of funds but I got there in the end! My parents encouragement, and the backing of our Elders was absolutely key. Respect is key in our culture, we always respect the wisdom of those older than us – they have seen things we haven’t seen and have knowledge that we’ve not yet learnt . We would never go against the wishes of our Elders”. As she chats, it becomes clear that the advice of those around her has helped to mould her as well as guide her . This respect of elders is a concept that’s been long lost in the western world sadly.
I asked her about marriage. Polygamy is legal and common in Kenya with many men taking multiple wives. “Traditionally the Samburu don’t marry for love – it’s a more transactional relationship” Sonia tells me. “Everyone has their role to play: the men look after the livestock and provide for their family, the women do domestic work , take care of the children and collect water. That African proverb that it takes a village to raise a child is demonstrated on a daily basis in Samburu – there is no competition between wives, but more a mutual respect and recognition of the value that the collective brings: the women take care of the children, their own or otherwise. …. they’re all looking out for each other.
We’re largely ignored (in the nicest possible way) as we walk and talk – Sonia is a local and her arrival to the village – even with a stranger in tow – is acknowledged, but in much the way you’d acknowledge any friend dropping by … a smile, a wave, the odd conversation. The experience is so much richer as a result. No one is performing for us, there is nothing to buy, and we’re not intruding on “life as normal”. It was a fascinating and heartwarming visit and provided such an incredible insight into Samburu life, without exploitation or invasion of it.
And whilst they may not have all the financial wealth and material possessions that we’re so obsessed by in the western world, there is a sense of peace and happiness, and pride and support that makes you consider that maybe they have it right after all.
Every aspect of a stay at Sarara is imbued with profound respect for Samburu heritage, where guests are invited to learn directly from those who live and breath this land. And this is such a big part of what which makes the experience so very special.